Noodles Galore!
By Dina Nouaime ‘23, Taigu Fellow 2023-2025
When I was a kid, my dad affectionately granted me the nickname ‘Noodles’. Though not shorter than my birth name by any means, ‘Noodles’ became as much of a catchy way to call me over as a signifier of my love for the versatile carb.
Over a year ago, I moved to Shanxi Province, a region with a similar considerable affection for noodles. In the process of settling in, I seem to have developed a steadfast “brand loyalty” to certain noodle vendors amidst Taigu’s bustling food scene. If eyes are the windows to the soul, food is the door to culture and community.
SXAU Night Market
SXAU Night Market New Location
Chefs in parade in Taigu making noodles
On days marked by incessant showers一 rain or snow一, I can count on the 牛肉面 (niu rou mian一beef noodle soup) joint in town, its fluorescent orange sign a beacon of hope amidst the gloom. Deftly wielding a massive cleaver behind a glass case of flaky stuffed flatbreads, the shop’s auntie greets each student entering as if they’re her child一 "Takeaway today? You must have a lot of work!".
In need of a speedy pick-me-up following tennis? Walk to the right of SXAU’s new north gate towards the Guangzhou stir-fry stall for a steaming takeaway container of 干炒河粉 (gan chao he fen一 stir-fried wide rice noodles). PSA: throw in an extra egg and a dash of tart pickled veggies for good measure.
Not to mention the Lanzhou noodle shop located just to the left of my favorite supermarket. Their hand-pulled noodles are the perfect excuse to consume copious spoonfuls of vibrant chili oil and Shanxi vinegar. So frequent and consistent are my visits that I’ve begun to get greeted by both a ‘hello’ and an inquiry as to whether I’d like my usual order.
Lanzhou pulled noodles with egg
Leng Mian (cold noodles)
In China, meals are heavily emphasized to the point where “吃饭了吗?” (“Chi fan le ma?”一 have you eaten yet?) is the social equivalent of asking “What’s up?” or “How’s it going?”. Though not necessarily a question as to whether you’d like to go for a bite to eat, this phrase has led to some memorable meals over the past few months.
To name a handful:
A birthday extravaganza for the head of the Taigu Volunteers Association, the dinner table groaning under the weight of countless Taigu delicacies before us. 烤姥姥 (kao lao lao)一 cylindrical buckwheat noodles tossed in fried cilantro, chilis, Szechuan peppercorns, garlic, and homemade potato chips一 will always be a personal favorite.
Chinese-English language exchange with the family of the taxi driver who always drives me to the airport, words dancing over heaping porcelain bowls of homemade Shanxi 刀削面 (dao xiao mian一knife-cut noodles).
A cauldron of rice vermicelli, swimming in spicy broth alongside a medley of vegetables. Shared amongst fellow Taigu Volunteer Association members and nurses following a community blood drive that morning.
Restaurant area next to campus
Shop owner’s cat and noodles
I had a Taigu birthday for the first time this past September. I distinctly remember leaning back in my chair at the end of a celebratory dinner with my co-fellows, our plates picked nearly clean. “Wow, we ordered just the right amount!” we remarked. As if on cue, our waiter placed an immense bowl of thick noodles topped with aromatics galore before me. Consuming 寿面 (shou mian), or 'longevity noodles' on one's birthday is a long-standing Chinese tradition. Their long shape symbolizes the celebrant's extensive and healthy life. Though already full, I made a sizable dent in the bowl. Who am I to argue with noodle tradition?
When I first arrived in Taigu, my bulky suitcases could have been interpreted as a sign of complete preparedness for what was in store. Yet, in actuality, my excitement was also paired with a cocktail of curiosity and uncertainty. The last in-person Taigu fellows had resided there pre-COVID. Surely, I figured, things must have shifted since their site guide was written. And indeed they had. Nonetheless, daily life, routines, and interactions blended, gradually turning the Taigu that I’ve come to know and love into ‘home’.
Much like the endearing nature of my childhood nickname, sharing countless bowls of noodles in community with others一 be it in celebration of a birthday or just a simple lunch一 has evoked a strong sense of connection. As my cherished time in Taigu approaches its final semester, nostalgia is (already) starting to creep in and take root. Though my chapter here is coming to a bittersweet close, my escapades in rural China will stick with me for life. After all, it’s hard to forget the adventure of a lifetime.
I left this doodle on the paper tablecloth of an art cafe/bakery in Penang. Shoutout China House for the oil pastels, Americano, and chocolate earl grey caramel cake that fueled it. Also Sidnhy M. Cheng... I guess.
